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Where Spotted: Brasserie Beck, 1101 K St. NW

Price: $5.50 per 12 oz.

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See the Light: Just as I’m lamenting the dearth of decent pilsner in America, Robert Wiedmaier’s restaurants release Brabo Pils, their second house beer. Belgium’s Huyghe brewery (makers of house beer Antigoon as well as Delirium Tremens) needed some coaxing to make this German-style beer, but it was worth it: Brabo is bracing and bright, with light hops riding on notes of buckwheat and fresh bread. And despite Beck’s boutique bottle list, this unassuming session beer is what I’ll be coming back for.

Buggin’ Out: “I should flip these kegs over,” says general manager and beer director Thor Cheston with great studiousness as he examines his tulip of pils. What he wants is more yeast in the glass. Brabo is actually a kellerbier, a lightly hopped German lager known for its unfiltered, yeasty goodness. As you would with, say, Hoegaarden, you store the kegs upside down until it’s time to tap them, stirring up the critters and suspending them throughout the beer.

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