Where Spotted: Whole Foods, 1440 P St. NW

Price: $8.99/four pack

Sugar Low: The English have a celebrated tradition of brewing soda-like ciders that appeal to teenagers, the homeless, and other drinkers with infantile palates. But Strongbow aside, England is also the home of gritty, complex, farmhouse-style ciders such as Browns Lane, which is made for Crispin by an undisclosed cidery in Worcestershire. It’s a cider for adults that showcases apples as a fruit, not a type of Jolly Rancher.

Bittersweet Symphony: The can’s label instructs you to “serve ice cold,” a suggestion I was loathe to heed with snow still on the ground. Besides, as cider warms up, it bursts with the bitterness of baking apples and bites with fruit-skin tannins. Fast and quenching but still worth slowing down to drink, Browns Lane will populate my fridge in numbers when warm weather hits.

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