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Where Spotted: Windows Cafe & Market, 101 Rhode Island Ave. NW

Price: $12.99/six-pack

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Everlasting Light: I’ve often dedicated this space to covering the growing fervor for low-alcohol, high-flavor beers. But before you harangue me for repeating myself, I suggest you find yourself a sixer of Victory’s newest year-round offering and conduct some first-hand research. With its sunny, golden glow and just five percent alcohol by volume, Headwaters wrests the word “light-bodied” from the stuff of Super Bowl ads and reclaims it for the good guys.

Heavy Petal: The first sip I took was nice enough, with fleeting baguette malts leaving behind the airy finish of whole-flower hops. But as the delicate beer drew me in for second, third, and umpteenth sips, I kind of saw where it was coming from. The light, hoppy, and addictingly refreshing session ale is an emerging style in America, and between all-stars like the floral Headwaters and the more sturdy 21st Amendment Bitter American, the country’s best brewers are staking flags in the landscape. With any luck for us drinkers, their examples will inspire more beer makers to try their hand at it as well.

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