Where Spotted: Whole Foods, 2323 Wisconsin Ave. NW

Price: $9.99/750ml

This Statement Not FDA-Approved: I admit it’s a hard habit to shake, but choosing beer based solely on its strength is about as bone-headed as grocery shopping based entirely on caloric content. You know the saying: numbers don’t tell the whole story. Well, this beer makes for a teachable moment. It has all the straw-and-lemon aroma of the classic Saison Dupont, champagne effervescence, and a clear finish—and packs just 3.5 percent alcohol by volume. Heck, it’s practically good for you!

Everything in Moderation: The brewers say this biere de table is “typically enjoyed with home-cooked meals at the family dining table.” But you can savor it even if you don’t live in a Norman Rockwell painting; sip through a whole bottle, and you’re only knocking back as much alcohol as a typical glass of IPA. Now, that’s the kind of moderation that even I can get behind.

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