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Where Spotted: Connecticut Avenue Wine & Liquor, 1529 Connecticut Ave. NW

Price: $4.99/22 oz.

All-Seeing “I”: Considering how often I stock my fridge with Tröegs’ pleasing beers, I never stopped to realize that they didn’t make an IPA. Well, they still don’t. If you ask them, the Perpetual is an “Imperial Pale Ale,” as opposed to the standard India Pale Ale. What’s the difference? British rule. But that’s another story. This column of golden amber, measuring a moderate 7.5 percent alcohol by volume, is chewy with resinous hoppiness and a biscuity malt body. Richer than the usual IPA but with more subdued bitterness, it’s yet another home run by a creative brewery that eschews tradition.

Style Points: In addition to Perpetual, Tröegs has a trio of hop-forward beers that one-up traditional styles. Each winter, the producers transform their flagship Hopback Amber into Nugget Nectar, the red not-quite IPA that sends hopheads aflurry. In spring, a similar base recipe begets Flying Mouflan, a figgy almost-barleywine with a similarly healthy hop injection. Tröegs hasn’t been making the same headlines as their more cultish peers, but for my money, they’ve quietly developed into a consistent and dependable brewery, and they’ve carved out their own personality in the process.

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