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Where In Town: Cork & Fork, 1522 14th St. NW

Price: $4.99/12 ounces

Nordique Track

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O Canada, poor Canada. The nation of Mounties and poutine never got much respect for its ales and lagers, as evidenced by the 1995 film Canadian Bacon, in which the late John Candy blusters, “I’ll tell ya another thing: their beer sucks!” Even though our neighbors to the north have long embraced ice-cold Molson and Labatt Blue as their de facto national drink, these brews have the watery consistency of the St. Lawrence River (and probably taste like it, too). Luckily, things have changed since 1995: The Canadian beer scene, which was once about as exhilarating as a Bryan Adams ballad, has been flooded with tiny microbreweries. Some of the country’s best beers—like this hoppy amber ale—are made by Montreal’s Dieu du Ciel!

Mount Royal Brew

The brewery calls this an “American-style India pale ale,” but it’s clearly an unorthodox Quebecois variation. Far thicker and maltier than most stateside specimens, it coats the inside of a glass like another Canadian export, maple syrup, and smells like caramel and honey with a few floral notes. A rich sweetness hits the tongue first, followed by a lingering dry bitterness and a hint of grapefruit. Sounds pretty good, eh?