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Doi Moi opened its doors in August as a one-stop-shopping destination for all the 14th Street gentrification cliches: pricey small plates, Asian fusion street-snack-inspired food, an open kitchen plan, and the Washington Post says it “exudes a breezy energy.” There’s even an “underground” bar called 2 Birds, 1 Stone beneath the restaurant, with hand-drawn menus proudly displaying the bar’s $14 cocktails. We have seen the future, D.C., and it serves blue crab fried rice.