Photo by Caroline Jones

The Sandwich: The Stacked

Where: Smoked & Stacked, 1239 9th St. NW

Cost: $13

Stuffings: House-cured pastrami, slaw, dijon mustard

Bread: Milk bread

Thickness: 3 inches

Pros: The thinly sliced pastrami tastes sweet and peppery but maintains some of the brisket’s lush fattiness, making every bite beefy and rich. Pastrami is usually partnered with rye bread, but here, a soft and pillowy milk bread roll makes it easy to tear into the pastrami, and its creamy flavor complements the spiciness of the meat.

Cons: The size of the sandwich, for its price, is quite small and only yields about a half-dozen bites. The meat could also use an extra dose of smokiness. Right now, the shop and its sandwiches smell like a campfire, but the flavor doesn’t permeate as much as it should.

Sloppiness level (1 to 5): 1. The soft milk bread contains all the ingredients in a tight package and because the slaw and dijon are applied in moderation, this sandwich yields very little mess, whether you eat it in the shop or carry it back to your desk.

Overall score (1 to 5): 4. Everything about this sandwich tastes good but with a cost of nearly $15 after tax, you may want more of it. If Smoked & Stacked piled on a few extra slices of pastrami, the sandwich would be a better value.