Caroline Jones

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The Sandwich:Morbier Grilled Cheese

Where: Ripple, 3417 Connecticut Ave. NW

Price:$11

Bread: White sandwich loaf

Stuffings:beef short rib, Morbier cheese, horseradish cream, pickled onions, whole grain mustard

Thickness: 1 inch

Pros: It contains cheese and is cooked on a griddle, but this isn’t a traditional dairy bomb. The combination of meat, cheese, and spreads eats more like a beautifully composed bruschetta (that happens to be warmed) than what mom used to make. The combination of three different condiments makes every bite sweet and sour, while the addition of short ribs makes the sandwich rich. Subbing the expected cheddar or Swiss for funky, French Morbier makes the sandwich taste refined and surprising.

Cons: The size. It’s only slightly bigger than a cocktail napkin and you’re going to want more than six bites of a sandwich this good. Because so many ingredients are packed in a tiny space, they tend to leak out of the sides, causing you to adjust the way you hold the sandwich after each bite.

Sloppiness level (1 to 5): 2. Despite a little leakage, the impeccable grilling prevents this sandwich from getting too messy. It yields hardly any crumbs, so you won’t look like a slob while hanging out in Ripple’s classy bar.

Overall score (1 to 5): 4.5. With regard to flavor and texture, this sandwich has no problems. The only issue is how tiny it is. A sandwich this memorable, at this price, warrants more than a few bites. Until things change, save up your pennies and order two. —Caroline Jones