What’s in Stein’s Stein is a new biweekly feature celebrating the liquids made, sold, and served by underrepresented voices in the craft beverage industries.

Beer: Bluejacket’s Turning Road IPA

Maker: Tim Liu

Hometown: Washington, D.C.

Price: $8 per 16 oz pint, $10 per 750 ml bottle

Taste: Neighborhood Restaurant Group assistant beer director Tim Liu says Bluejacket began tweaking its hopping techniques a few months ago. The resulting ale is the brewery’s Turning Road IPA at 7.6 percent alcohol by volume. The beer cribs its name from an André Derain painting and is brewed exclusively with the Mosaic hop variety. Peach, mango, nectarine, and white pepper leap out of the glass into the nose. Highly aromatic, the ale is a touch sweet with minimal acidity. Though it tastes and smells tropical, this IPA is brewed without fruit.

A century ago, American beer was hopped almost exclusively with hop cones. Today, brewers have many choices between hop cones, pellets, and debittered leaves. “We also use Mosaic lupulin powder … and we find it has a more intense aroma, which helps soften the bitterness for that beer,” Liu says.

Story: Liu is the only child of two Taiwanese immigrants. “For me, coming from an Asian background, I would love to see more Asian food culture mixed with craft beer,” he says. “That’s what drew me into the industry.”

He also asks restaurant owners to think more creatively when pairing beer with Asian food, saying Sapporo and Tsingtao beer pairings are played out. “For me almost all of my major life moments have been dealing with food and drink directly or indirectly, and the more we can push people of every culture with food and drink, the more diversity we’ll naturally have.”

Where to try it: Bluejacket, 300 Tingey St. SE; (202) 524-4862; bluejacketdc.com

This post has been updated.