It takes a chef with a can-do attitude to cook at Maxwell Park. The relaxed Shaw wine bar from sommeliers Brent Kroll, Daniel Runnerstrom, and Niki Lang has a huge by-the-glass wine list but a tiny kitchen.
A slate of local chefs will get a chance to see what they’re made because Maxwell rotates guest chefs every few months. Next up: Adam Greenberg from the forthcoming island-inspired restaurant Coconut Club. His menu comes to the bar the first week of October.
“The capacity for the kitchen is pretty small,” Kroll says. “I like the learning experience of seeing what chefs can pull off in there and it gives guests a different experience. In terms of food reviews, it makes us the Bermuda Triangle, but it’s fun for guests.”
Greenberg loves the place. “Brent’s attitude about wine and food is really open,” he says. “There are no real rules to him and I appreciate that.” The chef, winner of Food Network’s Chopped Champions in 2016, most recently worked for Barcelona Wine Bar restaurants locally and in Connecticut.
His menu at Maxwell features fennel soup with pine nuts and golden raisins ($7), a fall wedge salad ($10), braised short rib and risotto stuffed piquillo peppers ($12), and lomi lomi salmon ($15). (See the full menu below.)
“We’re going to do a braised lamb shank,” Greenberg says. It will be the first entree-sized dish the wine bar has served. Kroll thinks the hearty plate ($29) will be popular on the patio. As soon as the temperature drops, the owners will outfit the al fresco area with fire pits.
Kroll has tapped Greenberg to stay on throughout November, when the wine bar will serve a Thanksgiving-inspired menu. The wine list will include wines that go well with turkey dinner.
The pair is also considering rolling out a late night menu.
“I can go do all these pop-ups, but I just love Brent’s approach and what they do there,” Greenberg says. “This isn’t to rep Coconut Club as much as it is me getting out into the neighborhood and cooking. I’ve done a lot of talking but people haven’t had the opportunity to try food.”
Maxwell Park,1336 9th St. NW; (202) 792-9522; maxwelldcwine.com