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Fans of Brothers & Sisters inside The LINE DC Hotel pin Chef Erik Bruner-Yang‘s knife-cut noodles, chicken chowder bowls, and octopus hot dogs as early favorites. These dishes can be found on the dinner menu, but the best meal at the sultry lobby restaurant might be breakfast.
“The theme of Brothers & Sisters is a Western restaurant in an Asian country, so we wanted to have something that would speak to how Asians, specifically Japanese and Chinese, eat breakfast,” says Bruner-Yang . The $25 “Spoken English” breakfast set, named after Bruner-Yang’s forthcoming restaurant also inside The LINE DC Hotel, will fill you up for hours.
It includes a rotating roasted fish such as crispy skin ocean trout sitting on house-made oyster sauce, silky chawanmushi egg custard topped with salmon roe, pickles, chili oil, and congee, a soul-satisfying rice porridge consumed in many Asian countries.
“The soup gets thickened though the starch of the rice and you cook it for a really long time and season it simply,” Bruner-Yang says. He and Chef de Cuisine Harper McClure top it with mushrooms and shiitake bacon. Pro tip for vegetarians: When you cut shiitakes thinly and deep fry them, then salt liberally, they taste like bacon.
So far the set isn’t too popular, notably because the hotel just started booking guest rooms this month and most neighbors seem to be popping in for grab-and-go bites from The Cup We All Race 4.
It’s not Bruner-Yang’s first go at serving traditional Asian breakfast food. He served morning noodle soups like you’d find in Southeast Asia at his Maketto pop-up at Union Market. “We were open from 7 a.m. to 12 p.m. and all we did was noodle soup breakfasts,” he says. “We’d get a good amount of regulars who would want to eat that way, but once we opened Maketto, we tried it there and no one would do it even though we spent forever building up those customers.”
He wonders if D.C. is ready for something a little more savory in the morning. “D.C. is cosmopolitan, but not cosmopolitan enough to have an Asian breakfast spot,” he says. “But if things were different, I would love to be that guy.”
Breakfast at Brothers & Sisters is served daily from 6:30 to 11 a.m. and Bruner-Yang says the breakfast set will continue to evolve once Spoken English opens, likely in February.
The LINE DC Hotel, 1770 Euclid St. NW; (202) 588-0525; thelinehotel.com/dc/venues