Through his menu and the setting, Lucas Bogetto-Power is trying to create a relaxed Parisian feel after the sun goes down at Le Bon Café. The Capitol Hill mainstay that’s been in the hands of Sandra McCluskey for more than 20 years is typically only open for breakfast and lunch, creating an optimal opportunity for a regularly recurring dinner pop-up.
Bogetto-Power has worked everywhere from minibar by José Andrés and Rose’s Luxury to new Brookland wine bar Primrose. He’s inching toward launching a restaurant of his own in late fall or early winter. In the mean time, he’ll be recipe testing at Le Bon Café pop-ups about twice a month for the foreseeable future.
The Kansas City native has been cooking since he was eight, but that’s not his only interest. He went to college for piano performance and joined the U.S. Navy as a Chinese linguist who worked intelligence. He’s still employed by the Maryland National Guard.
The next pop-up is scheduled for Feb. 23. Various seatings are offered from 6 to 10 p.m. and dinner costs $70 with wine pairings. To secure a reservation, email firstname.lastname@example.org with your requested time and number of people in your party.
Dishes include milk-braised pork with crispy chickpeas, herb salad, and a dessert featuring olive oil cake, candied fennel, and chamomile ice cream. Each course is paired with a funky, natural wine that Primrose co-owner and sommelier Sebastian Zutant selects.
Bogetto-Power describes his menu as “minimalist and modern” French food that’s focused on ingredients. “I like the neo-bistro feel everyone is going for in Europe,” he says. “In the end, it’s how good was the fish that day? How good were the carrots that day? It’s somewhat homey, comfy.”
Le Bon Café, 210 2nd St. SE; dinneratlbc.com