City Paper is not for tourists
The Sandwich: The Huachana
Where: China Chilcano, 418 7th St. NW
Stuffings: Huacho style sausage patty, fried egg, chicharrones, huacatay
Bread: Peruvian French roll
Thickness: 3 inches
Pros: Like me, the people of Lima, Peru, love to eat sánguches (their word for sandwiches) for lunch, so the team at José Andrés’ Peruvian-influenced restaurant has created an entire menu of them. In this case, a pillowy French roll cradles a juicy sausage patty, a fried egg, and a funky sauce made from Peruvian black mint—without becoming soggy. By using traditional ingredients to flavor the sausage, China Chilcano has given the ground meat some appreciated depth.
Cons: Between the egg, the creamy sauce, and the soft bread, certain bites can get a bit texturally gummy. While the chicharrones add a bit of crunch, they also add richness and saltiness. It screams for the addition of something vegetal that could cut through the fat.
Sloppiness level (1 to 5): 3. This sandwich has a properly fried egg on it. Expect the yolk to ooze out of the bun and onto your hands once it breaks. On the bright side, the yolk and huacatay that land on the plate make an excellent dipping sauce for the fries that come on the side.
Overall score (1 to 5): 4. It needs some greens to lighten it up, but this sánguche tastes unlike most sandwiches in D.C. That distinction alone makes it exciting and worth a second visit.