City Paper is not for tourists
The Dish: Kale and Squash Enchiladas
Where To Get It: Brookland Pint, 716 Monroe St. NE
What It Is: Four corn tortillas stuffed with chewy oyster mushrooms, shredded butternut squash, and kale on top of black bean puree drizzled with a duo of sauces—mole and a bold and herbaceous vegan cilantro sour cream. The chef cooks the veggies with onions, garlic, and spices before enveloping them in corn tortillas. Butternut squash adds just the smallest hint of sweetness, providing a crucial contrast to the smoky mole, which includes guajillo chilies toasted in a cast iron skillet. Diners should use the tortillas to mop up the creamy black bean puree and “sour cream” made with a blend of tofu, citrus, and cilantro. Sliced avocado seals the deal.
The Story: Like its sister restaurant, Meridian Pint, Brookland Pint strives to be “an environmentally friendly gastropub,” both in its focus on local beer and its diverse menu, which includes numerous vegetarian and vegan items. With this dish, the restaurant opted to skip meat or cheese substitutes and create a flavorful plant-based entree using only vegetables, legumes, herbs, chilies, and spices. The popular recipe regular customers clamor for was developed more than two years ago.
Why Even Meat Eaters Will Like It: This isn’t one of those vegan dishes where the kitchen is trying to trick a meat eater into liking a dish by using an imitation protein like tofurkey. It celebrates the various flavors and textures vegetables bring to the table.