Laura Hayes

If you’ve ever tried your hand at cook-ing a finicky dish like beef wellington, or just about anything “en croute,” you know what it’s like to pray to at least three gods that you get it right. The new salmon dish at Primrose ($27) from Chef Jonathan De Paz is a clinic in achieving a medium-rare salmon enveloped in a warm golden outer crust made from phyllo dough. We break down the Brookland wine bar’s break-out sea-food dish.

1) Chiffonade kale studded with diced leftover bits of potato from the pommes puree that’s sautéed together with shallots and butter 

2) To make these crispy fish skin strips that impersonate pork chicharrones, De Paz cuts the skin into the right shape to fit into a bag and cooks the skin using the sous vide method. Then he dehydrates the salmon skins for 24 hours before cooking them in hot oil in a pan until they puff up.

3) About nine ounces of wild-caught Norwegian salmon cooked blindly to medium rare in the oven for about six minutes 

4) Chef De Paz toasts the phyllo dough in a medium-hot pan before putting the encrusted salmon in the oven

5) Rich and silky pommes puree thickened with butter and cream

Primrose, 3000 12th St. NE; (202) 248-4558; primrosedc.com