Caroline Jones

The Sandwich: Philly Cheesesteak

Where: Philly Wing Fry at Whole Foods Market, 800 New Jersey Ave. SE

Price: $12

Stuffings: Dry-aged beef, smoked provolone, roasted garlic mayo, pickled pearl onions, caramelized onions

Bread: Lyon Bakery banh mi bun

Thickness: 2.5 inches

Pros: One major qualm about cheesesteaks is how heavy they feel. The rich combination of beef and cheese can sit like a brick in your gut, but the acidity of the pickled onions brightens each bite. The airy texture of the mayo also lightens the sandwich’s load.

Cons: For $12, this 7-inch sandwich feels small and dominated by bread instead of fillings. The roasted garlic flavor doesn’t really come through in the mayo, and the caramelized onions, chopped into small pieces, don’t give off much flavor either. Roasted mushrooms could add complexity, but they’ll cost you an extra $4.

Sloppiness level (1 to 5): 1. A typical steak and cheese might leak meat juices and stay attached to your mouth via long pulls of provolone. This one is a little bit drier, but the upside is that it leaves your hands and plate clean, making it relatively easy to transport.

Overall score (1 to 5): 3. While certain additions make this sandwich taste more exciting than your typical sub shop offering, it lacks the juiciness that can make those sandwiches so delectable. If a traditionally sloppy steak and cheese is what you crave, you’ll want to pass on this one. 

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